Petticoats Revealed and Concealed: 1740 to 1840

In 1758, Sarah Halsey spent countless hours quilting a beautiful petticoat.  But why spend so much time on a garment that no one will see?  The term petticoat has evolved over time and began by referring to a skirt when separate from the bodice.  As a result, there are two types of petticoats: under petticoats (unseen) and petticoats (seen).  Sarah Halsey’s petticoat fits into the second category, those meant to be seen.  Everyone she passed could marvel at her skills with needle and thread.

The intricate design of Sarah’s petticoat lends the first clue that it was meant to be seen.  Visible petticoats could be worn with short gowns, which ended at the hips, allowing the entire petticoat to remain visible.  Petticoats also were worn with open-front gowns, which allowed a portion of the petticoat to show through the gown’s front opening.

Another intricate petticoat meant for show is a vibrant crewel-embroidered petticoat made in northern Connecticut.  Like Sarah’s petticoat, the design covers both the front and back of this petticoat, ensuring the wearer was admired both coming and going.

While petticoats like these two showed off fine workmanship as well as serving a functional purpose, under petticoats were primarily functional.  Under petticoats provided stiffness to support outer skirts and gowns, as well as being the primary female undergarment.  For this reason, under petticoats are often made of sturdy materials that are easily washed.  The decoration of under petticoats was confined to the lower edge, which could be seen when the overlying skirt was lifted to facilitate walking.

For an opportunity to see these two petticoats revealed, visit ConnecticutNeedlework: Women, Art, and Family, 1740-1840 at The Connecticut Historical Society. The exhibition runs through March 26, 2011.  For more information on the exhibition and the accompanying book, go to http://www.chs.org.